The Challenge, 30 routes in honnor of 30 years

As a culmination of my increased interest in onsighting sport climbing routes, I decided that a logical, yet slight absurd, Birthday Challenge would be onsighting 30 routes on my 30th birthday. I picked Wild Iris in Lander, WY. It is a beautiful crag, cool in the summer, with short routes.

Hands at the start of the day.

Rad Coffee + Rad Rock = Rad Challenge
The owner of Folklore Coffee in Lander is passionate/obsessed about coffee.
Do yourself a favor and stop by.

Sometime in the middle.
The route follows the lieback crack with no feet.

Most of the climbing was vertical limestone, but there was the occasional 3 dimensional route.
The route is graded 5.8, there were 2 actual holds.

My awesome belayer/girlfriend

Clipping the chains on the 30th route.

Hands at the end of the day.
Not too bad, considering the amount of limestone climbed.

I started the challenge at 7:30 and finished around 5:30, with plenty of time for the Lander Bar. Overall, the challenge was "easy". It was 99% mental. My training prepared me almost perfectly. I was most sore from things I didn't train for - holding clipping positions (I trained mostly by bouldering) and from high stepping (I trained mostly indoors).

I've struggled to come with the proper words to describe the experience. This challenge was a once in a lifetime experience, but felt like just another step along my path of life.

The Numbers
0 - Falls/Takes
1 - Awesome Belayer
2 - Major slips (both within the first 10 routes)
4 - Monos

Ticklist
Grade, Name, Route Number*
7, Greenhorns in Velvet (11)
7, “R” is for Redneck (25)
7, Medicine Show (27)
7, Chapito, (30)
8, Phat Phinger Phrenzy (8)
8, Guns of Diablo (14)
8, Ticks for Chicks (21)
8, La Vaca Peligrossa (23)
8, Slave (24)
8, Huggys Pull-ups (28)
8, Pronghorn Pinnacle, (16)
9, Iron Horse With a Twisted Heart (1)
9, Annie Get Your Drill (10)
9, Saddle Up (17)
9, Britchen Strap (18)
9, The Hanging Tree (22)
10a, Red Ryder (12)
10a, Jabba The Hut (13)
10a, Brown Dirt Cowgirl (7)
10a, Nouveau West (19)
10b, Stacked Deck (2)
10b, Aces & Eights (3)
10b, Never Sit With Your Back to the Door (6)
10b, Wet Wipe-a-Whet (29)
10c, Claim Jumper (9)
10c, The Man From Laramie (20)
10c, Back in the Saddle (26)
10d, Red As a Blooming Rose (4)
10d, Matilda’s Last Waltz (5)
* I forgot to write down route #15

Thank Yous
My Girlfriend - She is probably more relieved than me that Birthdays are 365 days apart
All the equippers - Made the challenge "easy"
Todd Skinner - Enough said
Steve Becthtel & Mountain Athlete - Invaluble training & advice

The Challenge, Part I : Olympic Lifting

I started my challenge day like all my other days, eggs & coffee. With a full bell and slight buzz, I started to lift heavy weights very fast.

Matt strugglin' in the morning.

The first event was the Snatch, one of my weakest events. Ironically, I get by being relatively strong. The video catches the end of my best lift. It would have been 3 red lights in Beijing. My backyard rule: If the bar goes up, the lift is good.

Snatch, 155

The clean was up next. I tied my PR which was disappointing because I had done a far amount of training for this lift in particular.

Clean, 205

I was so excited to test the slow lifts that I forget to test overhead squats in my backyard, where I could dump the weight. I had to do it at the UCSB Recreation Center and play it safe.

Overhead Squat, 155X1

The Challenge, Part II : Powerlifting

Back squat, my strongest lift, was the first event in the Powerlifting portion. I warmed-up and failed at my challenge weight of 350. I rested and got it: double body-weight, 3 white lights, Fuck Yeah.


Back Squat, 350

I did less well on the shoulder press, something about heavy weights over my head gets me nervous. I had a heartbreaking failure at 160 but got 155.

Shoulder Press, 155

I trained for PR in the deadlift but had to settle for double bodyweight. I did break 2.5 bodyweight from the ground but couldn't finish the pull.

Deadlift, 350

Benching is hard for me, and I didn't have much in the tank. I did it at the end of the heavy lifts because it is similar to resting. (It is the only event that you lie down to compete in.) I made 225, which is a warm-up lift on most days.

The Challenge, Part III : Track (and rowing)

I was siked about the 400m after setting a PR, 1:04, last weekend. It was completely different his week because I had to time trial and turned in a 1:08.

Feeling Strong, Good Form, But All Alone

I rested and refueled for the 800m. It was decidedly slower, but Matt was my rabbit for last 400m. After I finished I felt like the day was beginning to be a Birthday Challenge.
2:41 = painful & slow

Feeling Weak, Bad Form, But With a Friend

I went back the UCSB recreation center and threw down a 500m row. The time was okay, 1:39.

My legs were tore up, and it was time for the 1600m. Matt was my rabbit for the last 800m. It did not help that he ran the first 100m backwards because my pace was so sadly slow, 6:21.

This is my official recovery position.

The Challenge, Part IV : Gymnastics

The front lever was the first event in the gymnastics portion. The quality is debatable, but it was a satisfying PR.

front lever, 15s

Weighted pull-ups were next. I had to fight for 135.

pull-up, 135

Keeping the balance.

dip, 135

The biggest disappointment was maximum repetitions pull-ups. I did so many pull-ups during training. I could only eek out 22.

It wouldn't be a CrossFit day at the UCSB Recreation Center without being informed that were breaking the rules. This time it was "unapproved photography". Time to head outside.

I don't think I have ever tested my vertical jump. It turns out I have good hops, 25'' vertical (approx), but not the best measuring system. It involved me chalking up my fingertips and measuring with webbing, stupid climbers.

Insert Your Own Caption ...

I knocked out out 11 handstand push-ups. Easy.
I knocked out 25 pistols each leg. Easy.

I felt locked in with L-sit and set a great PR. It became a whole body experience with everything giving out at the end.

L-sit, 41s

Word of the Day

Muscle-ups were another disappointment, 5. It was becoming very warm at that point.


Ring dips, 24. Hard.

Ring push-ups, 41. PR!! Very Hard.

The Challenge, Part V : The Finishers

I finished all the max weight, max rep events, and fast events by 4 pm. All I had remaining were the long slow events. The events that would slowly eat my soul.

The first one was Clean and Jerk, 35lb X 2, 100 reps in 10 minutes. My strategy was Tabata interval the whole thing : 5 reps in 20s, rest 10s, repeat 20 times. It was a mind fuck, but I did it!! It was nice to hit Elite Standard that late in the day.

The second to last event was 5K in 20 minutes. That is the Advanced Standard, but I was taking what my legs would give me at this point. I cued up Rancid on my iPod, very loud.

"Maxwell can't tell he's in hell
He just wants you to visit him there
Same old game that he's playing
His rules are never fair"
Maxwell Murder
Rancid

My Private War:
rowing negative splits for 20 minutes, including a sprint at the end.


I went home and showered. My wonderful girlfriend, who supported me the whole day, fired up the grill for some tri-tip. The last event, sandbag carry with 130lbs for 1 mile, I did "off the coach." I have never even picked up a sandbag that heavy in my life. I thought training for it would not be fun, just suck it up and do it.

MGD - Check
Sandbag with 75% of bodyweight - Check
Let's Start the Party.

I did it!!Last event, Elite Level. If you are curious, it took 20 minutes without setting the sandbag down.

Looking for steaks, beer, and a hole to die in.

The Challenge, Part VI : Wrap-up

I would like to thank Alex and Matt for their tremdous amount of support during training and the event. It would not have been possible without them.

Matt breaking stuff (At least it wasn't himself)

Here is the final tally:

25 events
(I didn't test Mary because I wouldn't have been able to complete 15 rounds. I couldn't test the rope climb because I didn't have access to a rope.)

Elite Level
6 events
Sandbag carry, Pistols, Squat, Clean and Jerks, Handstand Push-ups, Front Lever

Advanced Level
10 events
Push-ups, Bench Press, 400m Run, Deadlift, Shoulder Press, Clean, Vertical Jump, Weighted Dip, Weighted Pull-up, 5K Row

Intermediate Level
9 events
Overhead Squat, 800m run, 500m row, Dips, Pull-ups, Muscle-ups, L-Sit, Snatch, 1600m Run

I had a great day, but I don't think I'll do it again. I'm already thinking about next year, it is my 30th. I want it to be huge.

One clue : It will involve climbing.

Nails in the Coffin

WOD

1) row 6k, 23:59

2) L-sit 3:00, parse as needed

Notes: It sucked.

Kicking and Screaming

WOD

run 400m (1:04*, 1:24,1:27)
kettlebell swing, 1.5 pood, max reps (15, 25, 35)
rest 5:00
3 rounds

* PR by 8 seconds, finally ELITE!!! It was crazy. Thanks Ben for coming out the gate fast and keeping it close.

"Go out strong, not slow. Then put the hammer down."
Larsen Jensen, 400m freestyle American record holder

Notes: Another Crossfit Ventura jem. Last day of workouts, I'm starting the taper for my challenge. I don't have records from high school Track days, but that might be my fastest 400m ever. I ran the first 100m not super fast, picked up the pace for the next 100m, and kicked like a bastard mule for the last 200m. 5:00 mile is possible. BELIEVE.

Another Day in the Office

WOD

1) dips, 3X3, 100

2) shoulder press, 5X3, 135
Light for me but still big wheels overhead

3) 200m run
40 ring push-ups
200m run
30 ring push-ups
200m run
20 ring push-ups
200m run
10 ring push-ups
time : 7:52

Notes: 4th day on. I "unracked" and 1/4 dipped my challenge weight, 175. The presses felt hard, but it was the most weight on my right wrist lately. My right wrist is no longer completely jacked, only a little tweaked. No "wheels" in the sprints. The ring push-ups greased the groove nicely.

Training Hard and Smart

WOD
1) max muscle-ups, 10*

2) front lever for time, 7 seconds


3) dead-stop front squats, triples, 135, 185, 195, 205


4) 250m row (:45, :47,:48,:48,:49)
rest 1:30
5 rounds

* PR-By 3

Notes: The muscle-ups felt smooth. The front lever felt/looked like crap but was my longest. I couldn't find my balance point or hollow position. Dead stop front squats are another great transfer exercise for Olympic lifting. I was planning to man up and go for 210, but lost the rack. They rank #3 on the list of most unpleasant barbell activities. Here is the list:

#1 Squats @ bodyweight, max reps, 20+: Advanced, 50+ : Elite or masochist

#2 Jumping squats @45 lbs, max reps in 1 minute, 1st rule: must break parallel, 2nd rule : feet must leave the ground, 40-50 : You're good, 50+: You're GOD.

#3 Dead stop front squats, triples : hard, 5X5 : you will not be walking out of the gym.

The row went well considering I decided to sell-out, go as fast as possible on every interval. Matt C. and I had a great conversation about fitness today. Part of it concerned the best way to play the game, aka get the highest score. Anyone that works out with me knows that I strategize very well. Rarely, do I sell-out. I do sell-out on new workouts. "Balls to the wall " is good frame of the mind to have access to but constant application flies in the face of smart training.

Under the Bar

WOD

1) clean, triples, 95,115,135, 135

Getting better, still room for qualitative improvement.

2) bench, singles, 225, 245, 255(f), 265(f)

245 - my old friend

255 - a new acquaintance

3) bench, triples, 220, 220(f), 210, 210, 210

4) clean shrug, triples, 225, 225, 305(f), 225, 225

Thinking : Explode !!
Thinking : It's Heavy

Notes: Stronger on the bench than ever, 245 felt light. I unracked and 1/4 benched my challenge weight, 265. I think I can do it. I love setting a PR, even in bench. I meant to clean shrug my challenge weight, 265 (again). The weight felt heavy, and I was slow. When I dropped back down, 225 felt like a paper weight.

Additional Note: Look closely at the picture. I am trying to clean shrug 305. No wonder it felt heavy. I am an idiot.

Fast and Light

WOD

1) OHS, 5X5, 95

2) row 500m (1:33) *
One number doesn't tell the whole story

3) Shoulder Press, triples, 95
max pull-ups (20,15,11,8,5)
5 rounds

* PR!!! Overcame huge mental barrier.

Notes: Getting back in the groove after a successful alpine trip. Right wrist is much better, but very tight. The row went awesome, still need to drop 8 seconds. The drop will require 20% physical improvement and 80% mental improvement. The last activity was a modified Lynne.

Bonus Intervals

WOD
1000m (3:41, 3:43, 3:55)
rest 2:00
3 rounds

Preheating

Baking
Cooked

Notes: The luxury of being a graduate student. I could do another workout today. Like everything, rowing is a mental game. I'm putting my time on the court.

Date with Michael

WOD
"Michael"
800m run
50 back extensions
50 sit-ups
3 rounds
Time: 16:05

Finishing the last 800m. 800m is a "not fun" distance.

50 unbroken "back" extensions is an interesting sensation.

Semi-submerged truck tires

Notes: First time with this WOD. It is a good one. Technically, I did hip extensions. Next time: shave 1 minute and sub GHD sit-ups. Shout out to Brand-X, great scaling for my friends.

Getting ready for Olympics ... err ... my challenge

WOD

1) lots of pull-ups, muscle-ups, dips,push-ups (all on rings)

muscle-ups

dips

push-ups

2) ring dips, ladder 1-5-1-3-1

3) ring push-ups, 3X20, short rest between sets (i.e. :10)

4) pull-ups, 3X11, longer rest between sets (i.e. 1:00)

Notes : Today was a long day of gymnastic work. The muscle-ups felt good because I found a rhythm. Remember: "goggle the horizon." I don't quite have the dips dialed. I slipped and my kip could be improved. The push-ups were fine. They will be a sufferfest. Here is the breakdown for the gymnastic portion of my challenge:

muscle-ups - got it
ring dips - possible but very hard
ring push-ups - got it
pull-ups - need a miracle
front lever - possible but very hard
l-sit - need a miracle

I'm a fucking climber and like overhanging jug fests. Why is 40 dead hang pull-ups and 1:30 L-sit shutting me down? Commonsense says the hard events should be the squat and DL for me. Maybe I should quit climbing and just powerlift. The only problem is my dislike of the Bench. Sorry Crankenstein!

Fat Pants

WOD

1) OHS, 5X5, 65

2) FS, singles, 225, 245


3) BS, doubles, 290, 290
BS, walk and 1/4 squat, 315, 345

BS, doubles, 290, 290

Notes: Nothin' but squats. My right wrist is accepting light loading. I'm still learning about squatting, heavy weights are good teachers. I need to start square which is hard because of my history of injuries. I need to stay on my heels. That is a confidence issue. I need to feel like I own the weight. I can no longer wear 50% of my pants since I have been putting on lower body mass. After my challenge, no more fat pants!

Suggested Reading

Training by Mark Twight

Living by Moynihan Institute

Notes : Mark Twight is my hero in climbing, writing, and training. I admire him because he deserves it. He has worked hard and is better at all three then I'll ever be. He has a similar issues as me with short-duration, high-intensity work. It will make you good but never great. Crossfit is the best program I have found but does not deliver on all it's claims. For example, CrossFit's motto is "Forging Elite Fitness." One of it's elite fitness standards is a pull up with 1 X bodyweight. Recently the workout of the day was Weighted pull-ups 1-1-1-1-1-1-1 reps. I did not find one person pulling 1 X bodyweight. The closest I found was .85, good but not elite. Moynihan Institute reminds of an old story: " There are three types of people. Some people you can tell them something. Some people you can show them something. Other people have to pee on the eletric fence themselves." I'm interested in being told and shown. I'm not into pissing contests.

Taking it to the 'Yard

WOD

100m run
5 burpee box jumps (highest box)
15 sit-ups
max rounds in 20 minutes : 13

Notes: Worked out with Crossfit Ventura. Lots of people and energy. Still unbeaten in the Saturday WODs, but had very stiff competition. Since my challenge has very few traditional Crossfit metcon demands, I'm only doing this type of metcon once a week. (That is right I used the words traditonal and Crossfit in the same sentence.) The rest of the time I'm training to be stronger and faster. Crossfit will make you stronger and faster up to a point.

Punching the Clock

WOD

1) 200m sprint (:34,:36,:34)
rest 1:30
3 rounds

2) 275m minute row (1:00)
rest 1 minte
5 rounds

3) pull-ups, grease the groove

Notes: Just showed up today. Chipping away at my challenge.